Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Beautiful Venezuela

From a town called Maicao we attempted the crossing into Venezuela. Let me tell you right now it proved to be a little harder than we expected!


We left Maicao early in the morning and after less than 30 min we reached the Colombian side of the border. Once there we stood in line to get stamped out of the country, but the girl behind the window told us: “do you guys have a hotel reservation for your whole stay in Venezuela or a letter of invitation from a Venezuelan citizen to visit the country?”. At first we had no idea what she was talking about, because we didn’t have any of those things of course. Apparently there was a new law (not even a month old) that requires ALL US citizens to have one of the two things mentioned in order to visit Venezuela. They call it reciprocity and many countries are doing it because we make it really hard for many countries to visit the US, so they are doing the same thing to us. Shit!

The lady said to go talk to the Venezuelan border agents first, because it was a very new law, and see if they would let us in without those things. If they say yes, she will stamp us out, because if she does it first, and they don’t let us in, it is a pain in the ass to get that stamp lifted and get into Colombia again after we have already left. So we ran to the Venezuelan side of the border and stood in line for about 2 hours. Once we talked to the agent, indeed he told us that without a notarized letter of invitation or a paid hotel reservation we could not enter their country. We argued for a while but to no avail. Their boss, a really nice lady actually, finally talked to us and explained why they have that new measure against US citizens, and deep inside, you can’t but agree that we deserve it, and it was not really a big deal, because she said all we need is a hotel reservation for 3 days and we can enter.

We left the border and came back to Maicao for the night and to find an internet place where we could book a hotel and print out the reservation. Well, this was “Semana Santa”, and all the damn hotels were booked!!! The only ones that were not totally booked were the ones that charge you more than 100 bucks a night. After several hours of unsuccessful searching we gave up and called my mom in Chile. She has a hostel there and we thought that maybe she knows somebody in Venezuela. Well, she didn’t know anybody there but she said that she could find us a cheap hotel. She is very good at these things! 20 minutes later she calls me back with a hotel reservation, which she sent to my email address so I could print it. And she found a hotel that charged less than 10 bucks a night. Thank you mom!!!! I really don’t know what I would do without her!

The next morning we went to the border for the second time and we got stamped out of Colombia. Then we went to the Venezuelan side and stood in line for more than 5 hours, in the sun, to get stamped in. The line was more than a block long!

People in line waiting to get stamped in, and it was a very hot day!

Once at the window, the asshole remembered me from the day before, and said that we could not get it! I handed him the hotel reservation and all our papers and told him that yes, we can! He called another guy and after arguing with both of them for a while, and mentioning to them what their boss told us, and also after hearing everyone in the line yelling “let them in!” once they saw that we were having problems (the people in line were really nice), they stamped us in and we were allowed in Venezuela!

We ran to get Pichula and Cubby and drove through the border line. I think because it was Semana Santa, it was really busy.

Look at all these old cars trying to get into Venezuela!

By that time it was getting really late, because we spent so long at the border. Jocelyn went to change some money with some people that had a food stand and got like 3 times more money than we thought we would (we learned that quickly. It is called the black market). Then we drove for like an hour or so, which doesn’t mean much because the roads are so bad that we only went like 15 miles in that time. Then we saw these little kiosk thingies with gasoline bottles, so we stopped there because we were running low, and in the border towns, as a tourist you cannot put gas in your tank, because each car has a magnetic band that is passed in front of a machine, for the gas pump to even work. It is a problem because many people cross to Venezuela to fill up with gas and then to back to Colombia. So in other words we were out of luck until Maracaibo, which was still a few hours away.

Roadside kiosk selling gas.

I pulled over and talked to a lady that told me she was Guajira (the local indigenous people there). They know that you are shit out of luck so they sell you the gas REALLY expensive! Go figure, expensive gas in Venezuela! Anyway, she charged me $30 for 5 gallons of gas. Yeah, that is expensive even in Europe. At the exchange rate we got at the border, it was more like $10, so I just paid her because with the gas we had I was never going to make it to Maracaibo, where the gas pumps are open to everyone.

Then she said that driving at night in Venezuela was very dangerous and that we should stay at their village, in front of their house, for the night. After weighing my possibilities I agreed and drove the rig to her house, where I first puncture a tire with a piece of glass that was on the ground. It was too late and dark to fix it so we just parked right there. They came later with coffee and chairs and the whole family sat with us and talked for several hours about Venezuela. I learned a lot about what the local citizens think about Chavez (who had just died a few weeks before we arrived there) and about life in Venezuela. We had a very nice conversation and then went to bed.

The next morning I started to fix the tire, and two of the kids showed up to help me. The smaller one was trying really hard to help!
Two local kids and my ass, replacing the tire. By the way, now, more than 2 months after I broke it crossing Panama, it still hurts and I have a bump where it cut the muscle!

After like 20 min we got everything done and then the family called us to their house for some coffee before leaving. Except for the price of the gas, these people were extremely nice and friendly, and I had the greatest time talking to them!

The whole family. Jocelyn bent her knees so I could be seen in the back.

We said goodbye and continued our journey on that very crappy road! It took us quite a while just to go a few miles.

In English, this sign reads "GOD HELP ME FRIED FISH"

We filled up with gas in Maracaibo and continued towards Merida. Oh yes, the gas in Venezuela is extremely cheap. We filled up the tank (about 20 gallons) for roughly 50 cents!!!

On our way to Merida we passed through the highest highway point in the country, and there were a lot of people on the road as well.
 
Driving against traffic? And is cubby sleeping???

This point is at about 4200 meters, which is more than 12000 feet! Until that moment, it was the highest we had been on this trip, and with my panic attack issues, I was feeling a little uneasy, so I didn’t really want to stop there for long at all!
 

Highest highway point in Venezuela
 
After driving for most of the rest of the day, we finally arrived to Merida, which is a pretty big city. Just getting in the town took forever because the traffic was horrible! It reminded me of driving back from work on 95 on a Friday afternoon! We looked everywhere for a place to park for the night, but it seemed impossible. After quite a while, we found a park, called Beethoven, where we stayed for a couple of nights. The neighborhood was quite fancy and they called the police on us in the middle of the night (at around 2 am of course) so I had to wake up and tell them who we were and shit and then they said it was all good and left.

 Parque Beethoven
 

 We went to the local market that evening and saw a stand that was selling the most disgusting shit ever! It was a milkshake with all kinds of things in it, fruit, alcohol, milk, fish eggs, and lots more. Here is a pic of the sign with all the crap it contains:

 
Yeah, it even had bulls eyes and testicles, and an unknown "secret ingredient". It tasted fruity, but you could definitely also taste many other things. We tried to finish it but we couldn’t!

 
The next day we realized that the town was so busy because of Semana Santa, so we decided to get the hell out of there and go to a national park nearby called Sierra Nevada for the rest of the week.

We drove there but the road to the park was really steep and narrow, so many times I had to stop and move over almost to the edge of the road to let other vehicles pass from the opposite way. That was very stressful and even a bit scary at times, but we finally made it there, paid out $4 fee for both of us to get in, plus $1.5 to for every night (really cheap) and found a really nice spot to park the rig.



We ended up staying there for about 5 days, hiking the park a lot, talking to other travellers, and just enjoying the piece and quite that sometimes I need after stressful driving. This park is amazingly gorgeous and it was the highlight of Venezuela according to me.

A beautiful view of the Sierra Nevada
 
hiking in the park
 
But we could not stay there forever so after the 5 days we returned to Merida for one more day and  spent one last night at the Beethoven park.

The next morning we left Merida and headed for another park that we heard was also really pretty, and with nice beaches: Morrocoy. The drive there was to take most of our day. Driving on that road was another thing though, there are holes everywhere warned by signs as: “Geological faults”, which literally means just a gigantic hole in the middle of the road. And I don’t mean a big pothole; I really mean a hug ass piece of the road missing! Sometimes I thought the camper was not going to make it, and that one of the tires was going to fall in the hole, and down we would go, ending our trip and our lives there!
 an average example of a geological fault

In Venezuela, if you are driving with a camper behind, you will get stopped by the police about every 15 minutes; sometimes to ask you for all your papers, and inspect the camper inside, and sometimes just to ask you what the hell you are towing. So, in reality, a trip that is to take 2 hours, ends up taking about 4, because of these constant police check points! And in this particular district, they had even more police checkpoints than usual and probably different laws as well. I was in the middle of driving, and the road in this particular section had two lanes going each way, so it was much easier to pass. I passed a couple of trucks on the left and then came back to the right lane. There was a police check point and the cop there saw me doing this maneuver and pulls me over. He said: “I don’t know how you do things in the US, but here in Venezuela you have a trailer and you cannot drive on the left lane!”. Now, I know I am not considered a heavy vehicle and even when we entered the country and were issued our vehicle permit and insurance, in both documents we are classified as a light vehicle. I tried to explain that to me but he would not listen. I also tried to explain that I was not driving on the left lane, but just passing a few vehicles and then going back to the right lane, which is exactly what he saw me do and I even signaled the whole maneuver! There was nothing I could say, he was just acting like a jerk and was going to give me a ticket.  I got out of the car and went into their mobile office (a trailer) and there the discussion got heated. At some point he told me I was innocent until proven guilty, so I said, ok, I want to see the judge. He said that there was no judge, and that he would give me a ticket and then I had to go pay it! That’s when I lost it. I yelled at him and said that how dare him say that if there is nothing I can do to prove my innocence, and that I was guilty from the moment he stopped me and that there was no innocent until proven guilty shit! We started screaming at each other and at some point the argument shifted to how much the US sucks and this and that, until I thought we were actually going to get physical! At some point he said something about the US that I agreed with, so I told him that in that particular subject he was right and that I wasn’t going to argue with that. He suddenly calmed down, looked at me, looked at the ticket he was going to write, took a deep breath and said: “Well, I will let you go this time, but please don’t drive on the left lane”. The whole thing was really like out of this world, and even as I got back in the car I was thinking: “what the hell just happened”???

A few minutes later I was passing another set of trucks (they drive amazingly slow!) and to my dismay there was another police control point! They saw me doing that and the ask me to stop. Now, there was a cross walk there and I thought first he was asking me to stop so people could cross the street, which is what happened, but after that he points to me and moves his arm towards his back, like telling me to go. I wasn’t sure, so I stopped after I passed by him and looked on the rearview mirror. He didn’t move, so Jocelyn said that she was sure he was telling me to just keep going. So I sped up and left. Not 10 minutes later, as we are approaching another police check point (yeah, they literally are everywhere!) a police car with the lights on gets in front of me and asks me to pull over, where the check point was. I did and a cop comes over screaming:” A police officer back there asked you to stop and you did not obey and drove off!”. I tried to explain that I did not understand his hand signal, and that were I come from, when a cop wants to fucking pull you over, he makes it VERY CLEAR that you have to stop, and doesn’t do confusing hand gestures that you can take as “keep going!”. By that point I was getting sick of all that shit. He said that they would take my license and send me to the command office or some sort of crap like that. I told him to do whatever the hell he wanted. He left and went to where all the other cops and police cars were. We waited like 30 minutes and nobody ever came back. After another 15 minutes or so, I saw the cops taking the cones off the road and one by one the police cars were driving off. I got out of the car, walked to the last police car, and asked one cop about my situation, about what was going to happen with us and shit. He said: “why didn’t you stop when the police officer asked you to?”. Once again I repeated the story that I thought he was telling me to go. From inside the car, someone said: “please follow us in your vehicle and we’ll drive to where that officer is, so you can explain to him that it was a mistake”. I thought “you got to be shitting me!”. But as it was a chance to get out easily I said sure, let’s go. I followed them for about 5 minutes when they pull over on the side of the road, me behind them, and one of them comes to my car with all my papers and said that it was all a mistake, that they understand it is two different countries and that hand signals are different and shit, and that it was all cool, and that I could go, and gave me my papers. Well, that was just too much, so I laughed, thanked him, took my papers, and drove away!

Later it became clear to me that, as a tourist, I don’t have a local ID number (like a social security number in the US) where they could find me in their system and give me a ticket and a trial or whatever, so there was just nothing they could do! And to not go through all the trouble, for nothing really, they just gave me my crap back. This has been probably the one day in my life when I get pulled over so many times, and escape the police, and don’t even get a ticket!

We finally arrive to Morrocoy, which ended up being a very ugly place.  It was next to a petrochemical plant and a sewage treatment plant, and the beaches were full of brown sediments and you really didn’t want to swim there. So we did not stay there to enjoy the beach or anything, just continued on to Coro.

Coro was awesome!!! The colonial town is a world heritage site and it is simply amazing.
 entrance to the old town

There was so much to see here and there was so much history and beautiful architecture! Many famous heroes lived there, like Simon Bolivar and others. You could feel it in the air.  Coro is a must-visit for all travellers.
 Cubby in the old town
 
 
 
View of the town from Bolivar’s house.
 
 The next day we went to the Paraguana peninsula and drove by the famous dune park Medanos de Coro.




 Later we stopped at a town called Adicora for a couple of days of beach and sun, but before arriving there we stopped on the side of the road to pick up some sea salt!

Collecting sea salt. Best salt ever!

In Adicora we didn’t do much of anything but to just chill and enjoy the beach, except maybe when I helped a crab that was wondering in the streets, to go back to the ocean.
 

There apparently is the parasailing paradise, because we saw many people doing that, and it was funny to see them fall, hahaaa.

On our way to the border to exit the country, we were stopped at another police check point and they asked us if we could give 3 cadets of the National Guard a ride to their home town, which was near the border crossing. We did that and talked with the kids about many things along the way. People in Venezuela were nothing but friendly and Venezuela does not deserve the bad reputation  it is given in the US. What governments do, it is not what the people are, it is just that simple. Venezuela was amazing, and I really want to go back there sometime.

Crossing the border back to Colombia was quite an adventure, because we did it not even knowing we were crossing, and nobody told us, so we were illegals in Colombia for a couple of days, but all that is for the next post, so stay tuned!

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