So after our fun time in Nazca we headed to Machu
Picchu to take a look at those ruins people never shut up about it.
We first
arrived to Cusco, the famous city many explorers from the early 1900’s talk
about and found it to be very beautiful, although quite touristic now. It is a
very big city and it’s really hard to drive there when you are towing a camper,
as it has been the case in many cities in Central and South America so far.
(You can’t escape the ladies wearing the old
traditional native attire that want to be in your pictures for some money)
We arrived there during the weekend when they were
having a huge party in downtown, including parades and festivals, where people
from kids to adults parade in the town and around the plaza dancing to the beat
of the traditional Peruvian music. It was quite awesome to see!
We spent a couple of days in Cusco waiting to go to
Machu Picchu. The train to the ruins (well, the city below the ruins which is
called Aguas Calientes or City of Machu Picchu) costs nowadays about $150 there
and back, which is ridiculous considering it only takes a few hours, so we
discarded that possibility, especially since the tickets to the ruins
themselves cost over $50 already!
We decided to go through the “back door” and drive
to Santa Maria (or something like that) and then to a hydroelectric plant where
you can park your car and do a gorgeous 10 mile walk through the mountains,
following the railroad tracks. We first passed through Ollantaytambo, which it
a small but very touristic town where you can also find a set of ruins. We
didn’t enter these ruins because we did not consider spending the extra money
and left most of it in Cubby (We had already paid in advance for the Machu
Picchu tickets and only needed money for a night in a hotel and some food). We
did take pictures of these ruins though because they are right there.
Past Ollantaytambo there are many ruins along the way,
where you can just stop and climb them, and by many I mean many. We stopped at
a few and also took some pics.
After that the ride gets a little cold (pretty high
in elevation) and then quite dangerous and even a bit scary if you are not used
to bad roads and sharps cliffs.
But we finally made it to the hydroelectric plant
and after talking to a group of workers staying at a house so I could leave the
car there, we started the gorgeous walk to the city of Aguas Calientes. During
the hike we saw a lot of people coming from the ruins, but not many going to
them like us, and I guess that was because it was getting late, and most people
did that hike earlier in the morning.
The walk is just gorgeous! You are always surrounded
by mountains and you have most of the time woods on the left side, and the
river on the right. We really enjoyed it.
Later in the evening we finally arrived to the town.
After talking to some people, we decided to stay in
a quite nice hotel near the Main Square, so we headed that way to leave all our
crap and then walk in the town for a while.
Now let me tell you, we have seen many touristic
towns during this trip, but this is one of the most exaggerated ones!
Everything is laid out to welcome rich tourists that come to have a “South
American rough and enriching experience”, but that want ALL the comforts they
would have at home, hahahaa. The area where the town lays is simply amazing,
including the rivers that go right through the town and the many pretty bridges
you have to cross, but the pueblo itself is just the typical kind of town built
just for tourists.
Anyway, after a few hours of walking through Aguas
Calientes we decided to call it a night and went to our hotel to sleep well so
we could get up early to visit the ruins.
The next morning we overslept a little bit so we got
up quite in a hurry. By the way, the busses that take you from the city to the
ruins (roughly 20 min) are about 20 bucks a person, so we decided the day
before that we would hike up to the ruins (which takes about an hour, although
it is a very rough climb!). We crossed the bridge after showing the guard our
tickets and began the ascension.
Once at the ruins ticket gate we had to show again
our tickets and our passports so we could be let in, so we stood in line for a
while and made it inside. Now, I am sure you have all read and heard a lot
about Machu Picchu so I am not going to bore you with a long account of the
ruins itself. I will just say it is totally worth it, even though so many
people go there that you really feel like you are in a shopping mall instead of
ruins!
Needless to say, we had a great time; this place is
really amazing and it has been a dream come true for me to have actually
visited the lost city in this lifetime.
We took a thousand pictures of course and many of them were in the
places that you always see on postcards and shit.
After several hours of exploring the ruins, we
decided that it was time for us to leave, if we wanted to make it back all the
way to where we left the car, and try to make it to Cusco that night. So we
walked down from the ruins again, this time directly to the railroad tracks,
and walked all the way back to the car. This day, after some calculations, we
realized we walked more than 30 miles, so yeah, we were pretty tired. We made
it to the car later in the evening and started driving back to Cusco, but I was
too tired to drive all those hours back, so we just pulled over at the side of
the road after a while (we didn’t have Cubby) and just slept in the car that
night.
The next morning we arrived to Cusco, and saw an
amazing parade (a continuation of the celebrations I spoke of before) with
indigenous dances and shit. It was pretty awesome!
Later that day our friends Patrick and Noemi, the
Swiss couple we crossed the Panama Darien gap with, sent me a message on
Facebook to let me know they were also in Cusco, so we got together for a
couple of beers and also to remember that crazy, dangerous and amazing journey
so many months ago where I literally broke my ass, which let me tell you, still
hurts!
Next post, Arequipa! Stay tuned because I hope this
time we will catch up with these damn posts!
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