Angahuan

We arrived at the indian village of Angahuan, just north of Uruapan, in the early evening. From the town, there is access to the nearby volcano, Paricutin, that we had planned to hike.  In Angahuan they must have been waiting for us, because as soon as we entered the town, a guy rode up on a horse, flashed a badge he wore around his neck claiming that he was the Angahuan Secretary of Tourism, and welcomed us with a bright smile.  He informed us that the main road through the village was blocked off (indeed it was...a line of rocks placed across the road...not sure why except to trap tourists as they are entering!).  He generously offered to lead us around the roadblock to the "centro turistico" at the edge of the town, overlooking the nearby Volcano Paricutin.  We followed him, still riding his horse, to the "centro touristico" - a park-like area with picnic pavillions and cabins for rent - where we met another guy with a fancy badge who informed us that he would be charging us 100 pesos a night (~US $7.50) to park there.  No thanks, we said, being cheap travellers, we'll just park somewhere on the street for free.  But as Mr. Secretary and the parking fee collector began telling us about Angahuan, and that tourism is their main source of income since the soil is too ashy to grow crops, they guilted us (ok maybe just me) into paying to park in their "turismo" area, although we bargained them down to 50 pesos.  But they were too nice to say no...

Sunset view of the volcano Paricutin from Angahuan

We left the camping area to check out the town.  It was a beautiful town, with cobblestone streets and decorated with the typical Mexican banderitas strung across the streets.  We saw people in their native dress, and heard people speaking the local Purepecha language.  In fact, many people we tried to talk to did not understand Spanish at all, they only spoke Purepecha. The city had a beautiful church and as we watched there was a church service going on, in Purepecha, and we were told that it was a mix of Christianity and native religion.

Angahuan street decorated with banderitas

 

 

The church in Angahuan

We had heard that it was a big night in Angahuan.  That evening, there was going to be a concert in the plaza from the local band, Banda Santa Cecilia. Everyone was talking about it - it was the big excitement in Angahuan.  Both the Secretary of Tourism and the parking fee collector had said that they would be there. Arriving at the plaza, we saw that there was a huge stage set up, with gigantic speakers, large video screens, just like a concert set up at a big stadium in the U.S.  We spotted a few band members and saw that they all wore matching Mariachi-type uniforms with "Banda Santa Cecilia" embroidered on the back. Wow, we thought, for such a small town, these guys must be really famous to have such a setup.  And we got here just in time to see the concert!
With just a short time before the concert was to begin, we set out on a quick search for food. We found the best quesadillas of the trip so far - from a lady who was selling food right out of her house.  We noticed that she had the door open and there were a few people standing around, waiting while she made tortas and quesadillas for them.  We asked if she would make us some food as well.  Of course! she replied, and she proceded to make the most enormous quesadillas we have seen - the size of burritos from Chipotle. She made them to order - with lots of fresh veggies.  They were delicious - and only 20 pesos ($1.50) each!
Back at the plaza, a large crowd was gathering, awaiting the concert.  The kids were wide-eyed with anticipation, gushing about the coming performance.  Lights started flashing on stage and a hush came over the crowd - the concert was about to begin.  They began pumping smoke onto the stage and the then band emerged from behind the fog.  What a grand entrance!

Dramatic entrance, complete with fog

And then the big moment - the band began playing.  We looked at each other in disbelief as we heard the harsh squaking of what sounded like a middle-school band practice.  The members of the band were blowing their hearts out, trying to step in time to the beat but failing miserably, bumping into each other as they all seemed to be playing to a different beat.  Is THIS the much-anticipated band?  Maybe they are just the opening band... Nope, it was the real thing.  Then, the singer began crooning, horribly out of tune.  What are we going to do? we asked ourselves.  We couldn't just leave right away - they had just started playing and we didn't want be rude.  Everyone would notice; we were the only gringos in town! 

The band and their admiring fans

We stuck it out for a few more tunes, but it never got any better.  To be fair, the tuba player was very good, and the rest of the band ... well, they did put a lot of effort in.  When our ears could bear no more, we snuck out of the crowded plaza and escaped back to Cubby.
The next morning, we awoke early for our volcano adventure.  Many Angahuan families own a horse that they rent to tourists to go to the volcano, so for some fun, we had decided to rent horses that would take us the 16k horse trail to the volcano.  Then we would walk up the last kilometer up to the top of the volcano.  The Secretary was waiting for us at the beginning of the trail, along with our guide, a 15-year old nicknamed "Zorro" (fox), and our horses. 

Zorro and the horses

The first thing we noticed was that the horses looked pretty skinny, and the trail was really steep.  Are you sure they'll make it? we asked.  Oh, yes, these horses do this trail all the time, we were assured.  We started down the first cobblestone slope out of the town, and the horses, though, not so sure-footed, made it down all right.  We came out into a clearing, and saw many avocado trees.  We stopped at a little house along the way  with very friendly people, and learned that this area is the avocado-growing capital of the world.  This particular family grows and sells most of their avocados to the U.S.  In fact, many of the avocados we eat in the U.S. come from this very area.  So much for the soil being too poor for agriculture, right?
We got back on the horses and continued on our way.  Gaining confidence on the horses, we began to trot and then began running with them.  We were laughing and having fun when all of a sudden, Matt's horse was on the gound.  The horse had lost its footing and fell!  Matt rolled off of it gracefully, but still had a foot hooked in its stirrup.  Get your foot out! Ricardo yelled.  Just in time, Matt managed to work his foot free, before the horse stood up and started moving.  We all breathed a sigh of relief to see that Matt was fine, and even laughing about the fall!  He got right back on the horse, but we all decided to take it a little slower from then on.

Horseback riding to the Paricutin volcano

We rode to the point where the horses could not continue, and from there it was up to the top on foot. It was steep climbing on lava rocks, but when we made it to the top, the view was impressive.  We got to walk around the edge of the crater and see inside.  We also had a great view of the valley below. 

A steep climb through lava rocks

 

At the top of Paricutin, the crater behind us

Going down the volcano was the most fun - there was so much ash that it was like a giant sandbox - no rocks to get hurt on.  You could practically just slide all the way down.  We ran down the whole way, giggling like children!

That's Matt out ahead, running down the ashy slope

Down at the bottom, Zorro was waiting for us with the horses.  We hopped back on.  Our next stop was San Juan, a village at the base of the Paricutin volcano that was buried by lava and ash at the last eruption in 1943.  The volcano erupted for 9 years.  All that remains of the village of San Juan is the church ruins, so we got off the horses and climbed to check it out more closely.  It is incredible that you can still see parts of the church as they were then.



San Juan church surrounded by lava and ash

Remains of the altar inside, partially covered by lava rock

After we left San Juan, we rode back into Angahuan and after returning the horses, went to buy some more of those delicious quesadillas.  We had a couple beers to celebrate the fun day and alleviate some of the pain in our backsides from riding horses all day :).
Leaving the next day, we found Mr. Secretary sitting by the roadblock, waiting for the next group of tourists to pull in.  He flashed his big smile and waved us goodbye.  We truly enjoyed our visit to Angahuan, and all the funny stories that we now have to tell because of it.  It was a great time, and we reccomend visiting here to anyone who is traveling in the area.  The people were very friendly, the town beautiful, and they volcano is spectacular.  And maybe if you're lucky, you might catch a performance of the famous Banda Santa Cecilia...